Well again it has been a while since my last post. After some really long days it is hard to sit down and recap it all. Not the recap part, just the sitting still and writing. Well here goes.
Friday – Adventures, Salsa and a New Home
We started the morning in Colonia and caught the buquebus back across. Grant and Daniel were back off to La Plata to see how Hector made it through the week with only a Spanish-English dictionary and copious amounts of justiculation. We wished them farewell and then Ashleigh and I went to catch a taxi to the hostel. We got into a taxi and started to speak with the nice old man in Spanish. Between Ash and I we spoke some really great Spanish to the taxi driver only to have him reply in English. Well turns out he had done some extensive travelling throughout the Americas and if I remember correctly had even travellend to Canada. We talked pretty much the entire way to the hostel, and he dropped us off right in front of the Garden Hostel. For some reason he thought it was some kind of childrens daycare or something so triple checked that we were sure it was the right place. He was a nice old man.
We got all set up in the new hostel and our new friend Jaun helped us through getting to know the area and everything. The hostel was really beautiful with a huge upstairs community area and a large outdoor terrace. It was small as well with only 24 beds which was very nice because you can build good friend ships with other travellers. I really loved this hostel and if I go back to BA again i’ll be there for sure. We were also lucky enough to arrive on the Tango lessons night. Ok I guess I better try so I signed up.
So for adventure today Ash and I decided we would head down together to check out San Telmo. San Telmo is an older area to the south of Centro with old buildings, cobblestone streets, and an amazing plaza with restaurants, markets and tango galore. There is also a huge antique market in San Telmo as well which we wandered through. Saturdays and Sundays are the busy market days so we were early for the craze, but we saw lots of cool things nonetheless. We stopped in Plaza Dorrego to rest and watch a live Tango show. Tango sure is a passion here thats all I can really say. Hopefully pictures to follow. One thing that stands out in my mind is the huge church a block away from the plaza. It towers so far into the sky and has many beautiful sculptures all over. A big plaque on the front in memory of all the people in San Telmo that died from yellow feaver many years passed. This is when all the ricos (rich people) moved from San Telmo to Recoleta and Palermo. During our travels around San Telmo we found ourselves on the border with La Boca. We decided to try to find the other hostel we were looking at in the lonely planet book because it was near here. On a side street we found it. I knocked on the door and we went to take a look. It was a really nice hostel as well. Smaller in size with friendly people and staff. We found out too that they had hostel sponsered activities like Tango and Salsa lessons for hostel residents. Maybe we would come back here.
Next we decided to venture right into the heart of La Boca to find La Bombonera and Camioneta st. La Boca is a blue collar barrio in BA. This is where the docks used to be at the boca (mouth) of the river. Well the river ended up drying up and the barrio turned into one of the hardship places to live in BA. To this day La Boca is a very dangerous place, and many tourists have lost backpacks and gotten thier asses kicked walking through here. Yay sounds like an adventure! At the same time there are some really great landmarks in La Boca as I mentioned above. Well we crossed the border into La Boca. Neither of us had really anything of value on us so we weren’t particularly worried. The streets within a couple blocks started to look much poorer and more foreboding, yet we pressed on. We found this great little park and as we started walking further we saw the Inglo Russo Church. It was a great building with spires that look like churches in Russia. Here is where we developed the prarie dog tactic. One of us would stand watch while the other flicked a few quick pictures. Again we pressed on towards the heart of La Boca. After some interesting side streets and some really cool parts of town we came across this really long field and at the end was La Bombonera. This is the name of the HUGE soccer stadium used by the Boca Jr’s soccer team. The pride of La Boca. The place is immense. We got closer and closer and the place just grew and grew. It is painted in the boca colors of yellow and blue. Simply amazing. After employing the prarie dog a few more times to snap some photos we pressed on for Camioneta St. A few blocks later after walking next to some traintracks and we had found it. Camioneta st is famous in BA because of the colorful houses constructed from corrugated sheetmetal and brick with a beautiful cobblestone street. See back in the day the dockworkers would take the leftover paint from painting the ships and in their evermost creative spirit they would paint thier houses all the colors of the rainbow. The street is touristy for sure, but definitely a sight to see. I ended up buying some nicknacks here and we talked to a few people who were some of the nicest local people I met in BA. It was getting later and the tourists and markets were clearing out so we figured we better beeline it back to the border. We walked back out, nicknacks in hand without any trouble on the way. We survived La Boca. To be honest I didn’t find it dangerous. Everywhere we went there were children playing or it was just plain quiet, but even the porteños (local Argentinians) don’t often venture into La Boca because it is where all the gangs, drugs and riffraff can be found.
Well back at the hostel we had a bit of a break before tango lessons. I sat with anticipation. Hmm.. the teacher must be late. tick tick.. an hour later and we started to figure maybe Tango wasn’t on. This is when we decided to head down to the other hostel we found and join in on the nights salsa lessons. We got there, they guy buzzed us in and told us the lessons were upstairs. They didn’t even ask if we were staying at the hostel. In the common area we found 2 girls sitting around. One was the teacher and the other girl was hoping she wasn’t going to be the only student. The lesson was really fun, albeit very warm and stuffy in the room. We learned some salsa steps, how to loosen up and also some fun columbian dance where pretty much I had all the women! Go me. After the lesson Ash and I hung around to see how much we owed… you know.. we weren’t staying there. Our teacher was like, “oh no don’t worry its provided by the hostel” We thanked her very much, forgot to mention we didn’t live there and left with a free salsa lesson. After that we headed back to our new home.
Saturday – Parks, Graves and New Friends
Saturday morning I think was the first time I actually made it up for breakfast. Breakfast usually runs until 11am, so sometimes i’m hard pressed to try to get out of bed, have a quick shower and make it there in time. This became my morning reputation. People were astonished to see me awake and chipper. I don’t know why I actually got up early, but it was a good start to the day. In the morning Ashleigh wanted to go sign up for some Spanish lessons, and then we were going to explore the city further. I decided to go with her up to the school to check it out. We walked all the way up to the school only for Ashleigh to realize she didn’t have the address. After some searching she stopped at a locotorio (telephone and internet store) and checked her email. We found the place and she signed up for Spanish. I thought about it, but I can’t be bothered to go to school on vacation
After that we got on the subte and headed out to Palermo to go to the botanical gardens. The plants, trees and sculptures at the gardens were all beautiful. It was nice and relaxing. We walked around the gardens and parks of Palermo for a few hours. The parks in Palermo are beautiful. We stopped at the japonese gardens and checked them out as well, and then decided to go for some lunch. In amongst the streets of Palermo we found this cool little pizza joint with a wood fired pizza oven. We had some empanadas and pizza that were really really great. After lunch we tried to find our way out of Palermo and back out of town. After some walking towards the subte on the map we realized we were going the complete wrong way. Accidently we ended up in Recoleta at the Cemetary. We went in and spent a couple hours taking it all in a bit deeper than last time. Only pictures can really explain it all. By the time we left there we were exhausted so we found a bus that eventually got us back to the hostel. I spent the evening relaxing at the hostel and resting my poor tired feet. This is when I met Ashley and Nicole. They were planning on going to the Boca Jr’s futbol game the next day so I joined them and we hatched our plan. I’d meet up with Ashley the next morning to procure our tickets.
Sunday – Match Made Somewhere Between Heaven And Hell
Today was the day of the big game. I got up sort of early again, had a bite to eat.. yeah thats right breakfast twice in a row. Beginning of a new week for ole Tyler. Oh and the cold shower. This was the second day in a row of the cold shower. I figured when I had the shower the day before and it was cold it is because by the time I got in there i’m sure the rest of the city had showered. Today though I know I was in there early enough, but still cold. Hmm this will take some investigation. Shortly after I was all ready, Ashley showed up so we could head down to pick up tickets for the game. The only way to get tickets is to go to the stadium in La Boca and buy them from the ticket office. They went on sale at 10am so we figured we’d try to make it for then. We got on the bus and headed down to La Boca. The bus pulled up across the street from this huge park with the stadium on the other side. Across the park we could see this seething crowd of people stretching for blocks. We started our trek across the field hoping to all prayer that wasn’t the line we were about to wait in.
Once across the field, doom set in. There were thousands of people stretching back about 4 city blocks around the stadium. Ashley and I walked to the back of the line and she said “well tell me your life story” We sat in line and chatted. Ashley is from the central US, but it slips me now exactly from which state. She has been travelling now for 4 years. Her stories were really amazing of all the places she has travelled. Some very inspiring stuff for sure. The next 2 city blocks, and 2 hours went by pretty fast because we had so much to talk about. I started to realize I should have put on sunscreen, and we both were feeling thirsty and a bit tired of waiting in line. All of a sudden this bell rang and people started flooding out of the line. We were confused because people ahead of us were just walking away. Well I figured it pretty quick that the game had sold out, and everyone was heading to the ticket scalpers that had been standing all around the field across from the line. We made a quick decision to buy some scalpped tickets ourselves because the game would be too good to miss. This is when we actually had to start to understand what we were doing because we didn’t know the layout of the stadium, ticket prices or anything. After some asking around we were finding that the average price was 100 pesos for a ticket. We realized quickly that the real ticket price is $24 pesos so we better get ready to bargain. Here we met up with a nice guy from the UK who arrived even after we did for the line. We decided to pool our resources and our western culture buying power. We started asking around more aiming for $60 pesos each ticket, and finding out where we were going to be sitting. All the scalpers were selling tickets for the end zone area where all the real hard core boca fans sit. This was going to be exciting at the least. After a bit more waiting it was evident that the scalpers were not selling out of tickets any time soon so we started to take our time. We finally bargained this guy down to $50 pesos cada boleta when we realized that the tickets weren’t even for this game, but a game in 2007. Wiley bastards, we started to look at tickets really closely after this. I looked over and spotted these 2 guys that looked like tourists. I went over and told them our pooling plan. They needed 4 tickets as well so we doubled our buying power. They were a couple of younger German guys, and one could speak Spanish really well. With the group of us and our Spanish savy german friend we managed to finally get real tickets for $70 pesos cada boleta (each ticket) which wasn’t too bad. About $25 CAD per. By now it was 2pm, and we agreed to meet our buying group back at 4pm for the game at 5:30. Ashley and I caught the bus back to near my hostel. While we were waiting at the bus stop this really extremely drunk chick came up and started asking for money. Couldn’t understand a damn thing she was saying, because she was speaking very drunk Spanish, but I humoured her for a few minutes until she went away. Geez I felt drunk after talking for 2 minutes.
I had an hour or so to eat some food and get ready to head for the game. I was feeling so excited. Ashley showed back up and we met up with Nicole a short time later. Well it was 4:30 by now, but no matter. Nicole had a friend named Alex that was coming along too, but he needed to find a ticket when we got there. On our way to the stadium once in La Boca, Alex managed to buy a ticket easily for $70 pesos and we were all ready to go. A couple blocks away, over the noise of the traffic we could hear this thundering noise. As we got closer we realized it was people cheering in the stadium. I think this is when my smile started that would last until the end of the game. We got closer and closer, cheering got louder and louder and the stadium started towering overhead. The stadium had the highest security i’ve ever seen. Hundreds of police officers in full riot control gear. We had to pass through and be searched by 3 different police officers, as well as have 8 different people check our ticket before we could get in. Where the hell were we going. Still the thunder of the crowd got louder. It sounded like you’d expect the coliseum in Rome must have sounded like with a gladiator contest. Finally we were past the last checkpoint and in the stadium. We could only yell at each other or point in order to communicate. By now I was so excited I was having trouble containing myself. We walked up to the 2nd tier and down the rampway to the open stadium. It was completely packed! with a heaving surge of people chanting jumping and cheering. The game was on. We found a place where we could see the game and tried to take in the atmospehere. It was simply incredible. A sea of fans dressed in boca colors, chanting along to all these historical boca songs. We tried to understand the Spanish, but it was full of slang. The game itself was really great. Boca didn’t play all that well, but the experience was amazing. When boca got scored on the singing got louder as if to motivate the team. When boca scored it was all out pandemonium with people jumping and singing at the top of thier lungs. The singing and complete controled chaos continued for the entire game. In the end Valez beat Boca by 1 goal. At game over we had to sit and wait for 30 minutes for the opposing team and fans to get out of town. Bombonera (boca stadium) has 3 tiers. The bottom 2 tiers are all boca fans. The top tier in the nosebleeds are for the opposing team. You can’t mix the fans here. During the game the opposing fans throw all kinds of stuff on the boca fans below, and even do so much as pee on them. We made sure we had the concrete roof above us so we didn’t have to worry. The rivalry between the fans is crazy. By the end of the game with emotions running high it would start a riot to let the fans loose at each other. This is why they lock in the boca fans so the other fans can safely leave. By the end of the game we all headed back to the hostel to shower and have some beers and recap in amazement to the other hostel mates. What an incredible experience.
Monday – Palermo Sightseeing and Hippy Drummers
In the morning Ashleigh and I decided to go out to Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood. These are the districts in Palermo with all the posh restaurants, trendy shops and rich people. We walked around and took it all in. Everything was beautiful, the restaurants were great and I liked it, but I didn’t really find it particularly amazing because its like a richer restaurant, shopping district of Vancouver. We stayed around for the morning, ate a typical 2 hour lunch in this cool little square and headed back to the hostel. Tonight we were meeting up with a bunch of people from the hostel to head to La Bomba drum circle at Konex so we relaxed and got ready to head out. It was Alex, Nicole, Ashleigh and I who ended up going. Konex is this cultural center where a group puts on a drum circle show every Monday. The music, atmosphere and show was really great. They are very talented and we all danced around for hours. Also at this place you could get beer. The cups were ginormous. Turns out each beer was a full 1 liter. Alex and I had a few while the girls got out of the crowd so they could dance. We didn’t see them again until the end of the show. After the show we walked a few blocks and stopped for a bite at this little empanada joint. We ate, drank more beer and then headed back to the hostel. At the hostel there were a bunch of people sitting out the outdoor patio having some beers. Yup more beer and stories. Went to bed a little drunk at around 3am. Good times.
Tuesday – Farewell to Grant and Daniel, Hello Food Poisoning
Well I woke up early in the morning with incredible stomach pains. I wasn’t sure if it was the beer from the night before, but my head and everything else felt fine. I bet it was those dodgy empanadas from the night before. I felt really crappy and my stomach hurt like crazy so I went back to sleep and slept until noon. By then I woke up and felt a bit better, but still not even near 100%. Ashleigh got back to the hostel after school and we went to go say goodbye to Grant and Daniel. We headed down to their amazing hotel. This place was the lap of luxury. We waited around there for Hector, Liliana and Marina to show up. It was so nice to see my Argentine family again. We all went out for lunch and did some shopping. I talked with Marina and Liliana for a bit in Spanish, but for the most part I just worked on surviving today. In the late afternoon we walked Liliana and Marina to the bus back to La Plata and said our emotional goodbyes. Liliana bought us some really nice mugs and we watched as the bus pulled away. We were all sad to say goodbye. Ash and I then walked Grant and Daniel to the subte and said goodbye to them as well. We’ll see them back in Canada soon enough. After this we went back to the hostel and I went to bed nice and early to work off the food poisoning.
Wednesday – Museums and Tango
In the morning I went down to retiro bus station, booked my bus ticket to Mendoza, figured out phones to call home from the bus depot and then headed out to the malba museum in Palermo. Ashleigh met up with me after school and we checked out the museum. The art was pretty incredible. I’m not very informed when it comes to art but some of the stuff would probably be pretty astonishing for anyone. After Malba we walked around the super rich district nearby and checked out all the beautiful houses and embassy buildings. We found the Canadian embassy here too. There were police on every corner in this area. Next we started on our way back to the hostel. On our way we passed the Belle Arts Museum. This is the museum that has all the Picasso’s and Monet’s and stuff like that. It was a beautiful museum. I spent a couple hours walking around, quickly lost Ashleigh and didn’t see her again until the end. We went back to the hostel, made some food and relaxed for a bit before the Tango show. On Sunday Ashleigh had went to this tango show in the park and got a free pass to lessons and a show. Nicole met us and we all headed out. I was a bit nervous to learn Tango, but after getting into it, it was really fun. I danced with this nice girl from Holland who was very easy to dance with. It was her first time as well, but we both did very well. After the lesson a full on milonga set up. Chairs all around the dance floor where everyone socalizes and then dances tango. Neither Nicole or I could go up because we weren’t good enough, but Ashleigh got asked to dance and did a few songs. She is a really good Tango dancer. I was impressed. After a little while a live band came on and some VERY good tango dancers put on a show. They were amazing. We stayed around for a while, and then headed home. I really had a great time, and I learned to dance Tango. How suave am I! Thanks Ash for getting my highly reluctant butt out there. I had a great time.
Thursday – Shopping and Leaving
Today I got up and decided to do some shopping before leaving BA. The great people at the hostel pointed me to a big shopping mall out on one of the subte lines. When I got there I was amazed because it was just like any other shopping mall, except the building was phenominal. I bought a few shirts and a boca jersey and headed back to the hostel. I went back out again to check out the markets, but I really wasn’t in to doing much more shopping. I got back to the hostel and relaxed for a little bit before heading for the bus. I’m sitting there reading and Nicole runs upstairs totally out of breath. She ran all the way home to say goodbye thinking I might have already left. A bit later Ashleigh showed up to say goodbye as well. She decided to move to a more centrally located hostel in a safer part of the city since I wasn’t going to be around if we went out at night. They both walked me down to the subte and we said our goodbyes. They both watched me as I walked down into the subte station. I’m gonna miss them both. Especially after travelling around with Ash for the last couple weeks. Thanks again for showing me so much Ashleigh. You really are a great friend. I made it to the bus station with time to spare, figured out my bus, boarded it and headed for Mendoza. Goodbye Buenos Aires. We had a great time together and i’ll miss ya.